Wai-Yee Wong

Hometown:

London

What do you do at Gieves & Hawkes:

I’m a Bespoke Undercutter, training to cut with our Senior Cutter, Lee Webb.

Can you tell us a little bit about your background/Do you have a background in tailoring/design:

I started in women’s fashion, and quickly realised that I was more inclined towards tailored garments. I was inspired to explore this calibre of artisanal craftsmanship that can only be found in bespoke and with that, found the aspiration to acquire the skills to draft patterns from a set of measures as opposed to using block patterns.

How would you describe your personal style:

I generally do not follow trends and just enjoy wearing what I like.

How did you come to work in Savile Row:

After University I attended the Bespoke Tailoring NVQ course at Newham College. They provide work experience at a number of tailoring firms in Savile Row. Subsequent to the course, I spent approximately 8 months with different tailors learning jacket making. I was then referred to my current job by a good friend and colleague of mine who saw potential in me, which I’m incredibly grateful for.

What inspires you:

Traditional dress wear. I love black and white, and the minimalism of dress wear which creates a certain sharpness and articulacy to one’s appearance.

How would you say Gieves & Hawkes is different from other brands on Savile Row:

In regards to Bespoke, I would say that Gieves & Hawkes offer a flexible service in terms of cut and style and are pleased to take on challenges which may not quite fit the conventional criteria! Our clients are guided by us; however we don’t enforce any particular style or cut.

What would you recommend from us:

A bespoke suit is a lifetime investment. The fact that bespoke suits can and have been passed on for generations is a testament to the craftsmanship used.

What do you do on your day off and what do you wear:

My free time for the past few months has been occupied by my maid of honour duties for my elder Sister. Including, making Grecian chiffon gowns for the bridesmaids and myself. During the making of the dresses, I was pleased to discover that I have picked up a lot of knowledge from being in the trade, and was able to incorporate what I’d learnt, as most of the process consisted of hand sewing. I like structured and fitted garments and tend to reflect this in my wardrobe.

Any interest/hobby outside of sartorial pursuits:

This year in particular I have enjoyed sports, which for those who know me will know it’s very unlike me!

A piece of good advice?:

Stay humble and let your work do the talking.

Our eloquent displays on our bespoke stand will demonstrate the company’s 200 years of service to the Royal Family and will also include the original 1851 Hawkes showcase from the Great Exhibition in Hyde Park alongside images and iconic products from our heritage as Tailors and Accoutrement Makers to the Royal Navy and the Military since the late 18th century.

We will also be launching on our stand the new Gieves & Hawkes ‘Made in England ‘ capsule collection of limited edition men’s tailoring and showing key pieces from the company’s Private Tailoring Service
on the catwalk at the Festival.

We will be in Buckingham Palace Gardens from July 11 to 14. Should you be coming, do pop by and let us guide you through more than two centuries of tailoring excellence and continuous service to the Court of St. James’s.

Along with Wimbledon and the Chelsea flower show, Royal Ascot is one of the most important features of the social season – it can also cause the most confusion when it comes to dress code. The thought of Tails and Top Hat strikes fear into the hearts of many, but the sartorial rules are in fact fairly straightforward and with sufficient planning (and a degree of confidence) men can enjoy this unique opportunity to look their finest.

There are two main considerations to take into account when preparing the outfit. The first is the question of where one will be based during the event – the Royal Enclosure is the most exclusive area and as such requires that male guests attend in full morning dress. Comprising of a morning coat in either black or grey, charcoal striped or grey trousers, a waistcoat and tie, and the infamous Top Hat which has remained synonymous with the Royal event since its foundation in 1711, this is NOT the right opportunity to experiment with ‘a quirky new look’: the sophisticated and enduring legacy of the event has grown out of its formality, and the rules must be followed. Cravats are not permitted and Top Hats must be worn at all times except when in a restaurant, private club or box and in covered external seating areas.

Whilst the core foundations of the sartorial code have to be respected and followed, there is opportunity for personal expression through colour selection of the tie, shirt and waistcoat and through consideration of detailing – hand cut button holes, boutonnieres and quality of finish maketh-man  here. Black and charcoal for the coat and trousers is the canonical standard, but the more recent trend for matching coat and trousers in medium grey  looks elegant and modern whilst remaining absolutely correct. Whichever base is chosen, a turndown collar white shirt and black shoes are a must.

The Grandstand is slightly more relaxed: although many men still choose to sport full morning wear to get into the spirit of the day, a lounge suit and tie is perfectly acceptable. A lightweight cloth or tailored linen is always appreciated by Grandstandees, who will be able to remain cool in the heat of the day and focus on the heat of the races.

Click here to see the Gieves & Hawkes Formal wear collection

Basmajian and his team presented the fresh edge of British sartorialism, showing richly textured country tailoring alongside sophisticated monochramitic city wear. Harris tweed was worn with crisp denim jeans, traditional British flannel suiting was re-cut to suit the modern urban gentleman, and the finest cashmere was worn with high performance technical outerwear.

Along with his first seasonal collection for the brand, Basmajian also presented a capsule collection of premium garments designed to bridge the gap between ready to wear and bespoke clothing. Re-imagining the ethos of Savile Row for a contemporary man, the limited edition ‘Gentleman’s wardrobe’ of luxurious British tailoring, shirting and elegant weekend wear is fully hand-crafted in England and Scotland.

‘This is a wardrobe that is traditional in spirit, yet modern and graphic in design. Inspired by our bespoke cutters, everything is British-made and truly hand crafted as an expression of understated, timeless elegance’
says Jason Basmajian, Creative Director, Gieves & Hawkes.

The capsule collection will be sold exclusively at Number 1 Savile Row from September 2013.

The garment is a variation on a Privy Councillor Diplomatic uniform that Mr. Jackson spotted on display in the windows at No 1 Savile Row. As the garment is based on formal courtly attire, additional features such as the epaulets were added to avoid any confusion. Iconic and ornate, it is a lasting representation of Gieves & Hawkes craftsmanship whereby sartorial artisans cut and sew bespoke garments by hand just as they have done for hundreds of years. It is this dedication to tradition and ‘handwork’ that has made Gieves & Hawkes the epitome of English tailoring excellence.

A short Q&A with Garry Carr, Gieves & Hawkes Miltary, on his recollections about this piece:

What do you recall of the day?

In July 1988, a member of Mr. Jackson’s team called and enquired about a uniform that was on display in The windows of our flagship store at No. 1 Savile Row. Mr. Jackson saw the uniform on display when he was driving through Savile Row and the jacket captured his attention. Since he was in a hurry, we went directly to his hotel for a fitting. We did not know at this point that it was going to be featured in his World Tour!

Mr Jackson was known for being a perfectionist in all aspects of his work: how specific were his instructions?

He was very specific in that he wanted the uniform he had seen in the window. Unfortunately since it was an official Privy Councillor diplomatic uniform, we had to make adjustments so that it would be able to be worn by a civilian. The epaulets and decorations were added so as to make it more unique.

What was this outfit intended for?

He did not specify at the time, but he wanted it to be ready for his UK leg of the Bad World Tour.

How usual is this sort of request?

At that time it was unusual for a major star to ask for a military uniform unless it was for a film shoot. Now we do have more celebrity clients.

How long did the fitting take?

The actual fitting did not take too long as he was a very busy man! The actual production time of the Garment was also less than normal. It usually takes 3 – 4 months to produce a piece of bespoke military wear, but we were only allowed a matter of weeks as was in a hurry to continue his tour.

What did he particularly like about the way it looked?

He enjoyed the ornateness of the garment and also he enjoyed the uniformed look.

How often does Gieves & Hawkes get to work with the world of rock and pop?

With our bespoke branch for civilian clothing, quite often. With bespoke uniforms, occasionally.

Would you close the shop when someone of this nature comes in, or are fittings like this done out of hours?

The fittings would generally be done out of hours to avoid unnecessary attention, but if we are able we would also travel to do fittings.

The uniform will be on display at Gieves & Hawkes, 20 Old Bond Street, Bath from Saturday the 13th of April  http://www.gievesandhawkes.com/bath

Matthew Crocker

Hometown:

Corsham, Wiltshire. Near Bath

What do you do at Gieves & Hawkes: 

I am currently the military supervisor alongside Garry Carr and on passing my probation I will be classed as the manager.

Can you tell us a little bit about your background/Do you have a background in tailoring/design:

My background is varied:  I began my path into fashion and tailoring at secondary school where I studied A level fashion and textiles. I have always been creative and I soon found I loved designing and making clothes. During my studies I looked at Men’s tailoring and fell in love with the craft. As it happens my Great grandfather was a bespoke tailor (master coatsman to be precise) and I began looking into this quiet but infamous world, a world Gieves & Hawkes had a very large hand in creating at the epicentre of our beloved Savile Row. My aspiration is to continue my training and become a military cutter as the military is and always has been a passion of mine.

How would you describe your personal style:

My style inspirations come from the 1920’s and 1930’s, influences that the keen of eye may be able to notice in the new suit that is currently being prepared for me by the Gieves & Hawkes Made to Measure department. There are a couple of personal signatures that I ensure are present on all of my suits: they must have my favorite lining, an orange silk with small navy polka dot; the cuffs must be working with the bottom (cuff side) button hole sewn in bright orange twist and I also almost always wear a tie pin. These small details are my modern twist on the classic styles I enjoy wearing so much.

How did you come to work in Savile Row:

I started working in our Bath store (near my family home) after I had completed my tailor training and from there I was lucky enough to get recognized and called up to our flagship store on Savile Row. I started as a salesman and moved into the military department upon showing my passion for it.

What inspires you?:

I have two main inspirations in my life:  the first is my genuine love of clothes and the trade I am lucky enough to work in – I get immense satisfaction helping our customers look and feel their best.  My second inspiration is my family – I grew up around incredibly hard working people, none more so than my mum and dad, who both have an amazing work ethic and commendable resilience – I like to think that some of their character has rubbed off on me.

How would you say Gieves & Hawkes is different from other brands on Savile Row:

I feel G+H has so much to offer. We have never been a brand to pigeonhole ourselves in anyway and a lot of the success of the brand, and the reason it’s an incredible place to work here, is that the brand keeps on developing and moving with the times. We are lucky to be able to offer all four major tailoring services under one roof at Gieves & Hawkes: a fantastic set of cutters and tailors in bespoke, the well oiled machine that is our Made to Measure department, our ever growing ready to wear service along with our Military business which I have big plans for. We have the knowledge and the name to sew up the market (excuse the pun) and we have a lot of exciting projects in the pipeline. Watch this space.

What would you recommend from our collection:

I would always encourage everyone to invest in a Made to Measure suit – the level of fit and customisation gives you that first experience of having something made: it’s the perfect stepping stone into the world of style and elegant dressing.

What do wear on your day off:

I consider myself to be a man of contrasts and I certainly feel this is expressed in my sartorial choices, whether I am spruced up in one of my suits or relaxing in jeans at the weekend. I love denim, it’s a robust and versatile textile (although care should be taken with choosing the correct shade for the event). I also love printed T-shirts and in fact I make my own from time to time when I have the chance. Shoes always provide an opportunity to express oneself and depending on what I’m doing they’ll range from simple suede ‘two ties’ to Vans skater shoes (preferably white soled classic line).  Men’s fashion is all about the small details and choosing them well and I think this holds true whether dressing for work or play.

Any interest/hobby outside of sartorial pursuits:

Anything that will give me a massive hit of adrenaline. I love Rugby and I used to play at a decent level playing for Dorset and Wiltshire. I also enjoy downhill biking – you can’t beat the rush of flying down a mountain at 40mph only inches away from trees and boulders. When I am not putting myself in harm’s way either on a bike or on the rugby pitch, designing clothes amongst other things is pretty much the only thing that calms me down and gives me clarity.

A piece of good advice?

The best piece of advice I was ever given was by an old lady in my local village pub: “when you want something it will never arrive….so. work hard, forget about it and it will find its way to you”.  I was 15 at the time but now I look back she was 100% right. You can never expect anything in this life, it has to be earned so always have a good work ethic and a positive outlook on life. You’ll be surprised at how far these two qualities will get you.

The book features as its front cover the splendid military dress uniform, commissioned from Hawkes in 1912 by Viscount Althorp, later 7th. Earl Spencer, the maternal great grandfather of Princes William and Harry, and explores the relationship between Power and Style since the inception of formal dress codes centuries ago.

Following in the long tradition of dressing top British naval and military officers as well as Royalty at home and abroad, it is only fitting that the event was hosted at the Gieves & Hawkes flagship store, No 1 Savile Row.

Along with the authors, former First Sea Lord, Admiral Lord West, and fashion author Colin MacDowell spoke of their experiences around the topic.

Jolyon Bexon.

Hometown:

Maidstone, Kent.

What do you do at Gieves & Hawkes:

I am the flagship store manager.

Can you tell us a little bit about your background/Do you have a background in tailoring/design:

I moved to London 12 years ago to study Women’s wear design and dress making. My enthusiasm for this side of the industry all but ceased after the three years, I think I enjoyed the parties more than the sewing.

How would you describe your personal style:

My personal style is a bit David Niven meets Gordon Gekko. It’s more than just clothing though, I wouldn’t say I try too hard and just keep things organic.

How did you come to work in Savile Row:

I was lucky enough to be offered the position 18 months ago. It was a dream come true to be working at the epicentre of global tailoring.

What inspires you?:

Many things inspire me on different levels. I love working with people who really don’t need to work anymore but continue because of the passion they have for their role. It isn’t really work, more of a cause.

 
How would you say Gieves & Hawkes is different from other brands on Savile Row:

I think the experience we offer is unique. We will shine your shoes, cut you hair, get you a whisky and on top of that dress you. Its a home for every sartorial gent. We are also welcoming to anyone who walks through the door. Our store probably has the most varied clientele on the Row.

What would you recommend from our collection:

Our Ready to Wear is exceptional but I would recommend our Made to Measure service. I’ve just ordered a suit with Marlon Small and have picked out some really exciting cloths. I’m already looking at the calender and counting down the days.

What do wear on your day off:

I love work wear and military surplus clothing. I have a beautiful royal blue cotton workers jacket from France that I’ve worn all around the world. Its indestructible. I always wear smart leather shoes though. No trainers.

Any interest/hobby outside of sartorial pursuits:

I’ve just had a baby (or my wife has) so that’s my hobby. No need for anything else at the moment.

A piece of good advice?:

Never try to be anything other than yourself. You’re good enough so stick to your guns. On top of that I would highly recommend that you turn up on time, shine your shoes and smile. Its gets you surprisingly far!

 Photographed by Khalil Musa

Politics is a dangerous game and House of Cards, the new series premiering on Netflix explores the darker side of Washington. Francis Underwood played by Kevin Spacey and dressed for the role by Gieves & Hawkes, is a Machiavellian schemer who would do anything to get to the top.\

In a revelatory scene early in the series, Mr. Underwood describes power as being the ‘old stone building that stands for centuries’. How fitting therefore that his choice of attire should come from No 1 Savile Row, an address that has stood at the epicentre of men’s traditional style for centuries home to Gieves & Hawkes, the tailors that have dressed heads of state from around the world for over 250 years.

However, over the last year there has been a re-emergence in the popularity of the DB on the streets of London and notably the look is being sported by a younger generation of men, who have swapped the robust and heavy tailoring of their fathers for something more streamlined and fluid.  The ‘return of the double-breasted’ can be partly explained by the recent popularity of the look on the catwalks of Milan and Paris, where designers have experimented with the rules of the DB assisting with its return to prominence. The other possible explanation for the garment’s renewed popularity is the revitalised interest in craft and tradition which has developed as reaction against a decade of fast fashion and ‘disposable’ garments.

At Gieves & Hawkes we feel that there is something debonair about sporting a DB jacket, but to achieve the right look the cut and fit need to be just right. As Jolyon Bexon, our Store Manager at No.1 Savile Row states, ‘Make sure the fit is sharp, and think Duke of Windsor rather than Arthur Daley’. 

On the bespoke front, Lee Webb, one of our senior cutters has noted an increase in sales of the style and explains that ‘DB’s to me are slightly more formal than single breasted, so maybe people are going through a phase of wanting to look that little bit more sharp’. The extra fabric coverage across the torso, along with the strong diagonal lines created by the elongated lapels, creates a strong architecture which is both visually arresting and masculine.  He also explains the fundamental differences between a double-breasted and single-breasted: ‘In terms of fit, there is no real difference, except that some people may feel more enclosed in the garment due to the wrap-over. Visually, DB’s differ from single-breasted jackets in possessing square fronts, having wider lapels and of course the extra buttons ’.

Due to the extra fabric and wrap, the DB is often seen as quite an unforgiving look, but the recent trend for placing the jacket buttons closer together and higher (in essence reducing the wrap and giving the entire suit a youthful lift) means that the jacket can be worn open and therefore more casually. The Italians have been wearing this style in summer for decades and we feel this is especially appropriate for our young customers.

To illustrate how a DB could be worn, here are some of our Private Tailoring specialists and store consultants sporting their own interpretations of how they wear the jacket.

Close button stance DB

Grey flannel work ready DB

For those not quite yet ready to wear a full Double-Breasted suit for work, the style can still be easily enjoyed as part of a casual wardrobe: this February also sees the launch of our new window display at No.1 Savile Row, the centrepiece of which will be a DB summer weight blazer.  The DB is bespoke and will be displayed in 3 stages of its production through reverse engineering the jacket.  It’s made in a blue linen cloth with a butterfly lining and horn buttons.

Light navy linen for double-breasted style in summer

 Photographed by Khalil Musa